Some of us love them, some hate them. Snails would probably be more welcome in aquariums if they weren’t so prolific. A large population of snail can lead to the destruction of your aquatic plants and even upset the aquarium ecological balance.
Here are a few tips to help you control snails in your aquarium
Overfeeding is the number one cause of snail outbreaks. If you see more and more snails in your tank, then there are good probability that you are overfeeding. Before to try any other method of control, reduce feeding a little. This should help lot.
Some aquarium species will eat snails. Some of the best at eating snails are the members of the genus botia such as the well known clown loach. Puffer fish, Bettas, crayfish, most gouramis and apple snails will also prey on these snails.
Cleaning the aquatic plants
Since Ramshorn snails are often introduced in the aquarium as egg bundles hidden in newly acquired plants, treating the plants can help lot.
Chlorine Bleach – One way to treat hardier plants is to soak them in a solution of water and chlorine bleach for 10 minutes (20 parts of water, 1 part of bleach). When treating my plants with bleach, I always avoid to treat the roots to not damaging them. A bleach bath should always followed by an other bath with water containing a dechlorinating agent.
Alum – A more gentle treatment calls for 5-10 tablespoons of alum to 1 gallon of water for 2-3 days.
Snail Poison – An other way to treat the plants is to quarantine them and treat with snail poisons. This way, you don’t have to use poisons in the main show tank.
Salt - I know that some will tip the plant in saltwater for 5 minutes to kill the snails or eggs but I don’t know how much salt they use for that.
Potassium Permanganate – Prepare soaking solution using one gallon of water and a half tablespoon of potassium permanganate. Soak for fifteen minutes, then rinse well before planting in tank.
Manual removal can also be an effective way to get rid of a snail infestation.
Let them come to you – To help removing the snail, some aquarist will use lettuce of cucumber to bait them. There are snail traps available to buy. These traps work quite simply by adding some food into a chamber that the snails can get into but can’t get out. If you don’t want to pay for a snail trap, get a small glass jar and put a small piece of letuce or fish food in it. Carefully sink the jar on the bottom of the aquarium. The next day, remove the snails in the jar and repeat the process.
Stop Aeration – An other effective way to help removing the snails manually is to stop the aeration. The snails need air so they will soon climb to upper levels in order to breath. It is very easy to take them out as they reach the surface. Planted tank may not have an air pump since the plants alone are enough to supply air. In this case leaving the light off for some time (plants only produce air during day time) might help.
Chemical solutions, which can be purchases at any pet or aquaria store, kill snails and eggs effectively. Unfortunately, most solution are copper-sulfate-based chemicals which will also harm the fish and any other living organism in your tank. For this reason, It is best to try to avoid this method. If you chose to use chemicals to kill your snails, make sure to vacuum and do frequent partial water changes to restore water parameters. You should also add some activated carbon to your filter after the treatment.
When it comes to Betta fish tanks, a 5 gallon fish tank is by no means big. You’ll find that there are plenty of different shapes and designs in this category and that 5 gallon fish Betta tanks are great for big desks, coffee tables, or large shelves.
About setting up a 5 gallon Betta fish tank
If you are considering setting up a Betta fish tank then congratulations, you have chosen a beautiful and very popular aquarium fish that originally came from the tropical waters of Thailand, Borneo and Malaysia.
The betta fish holds the scientific name of betta Splendens and it is also known as the Siamese fighting fish. This is because males are territorial and will fight for domination. In the wild this is not usually a huge problem, as the "loser" will escape to safety. However, in the betta fish tank, this of course is not possible and often males will fight to the death.
Here we hope to provide you with valuable information about maintaining and caring for betta aquariums and which will help you to provide a stress free environment or your bettas to thrive and maybe even multiply in.
How to choose a 5 gallon Betta tank?
5 gallon Betta fish tanks are going to be about 16” x 8” x 10” and will probably way around 70 pounds when filled with water and fish tank decorations. In today’s modern world many polymers and acrylics are used in the construction of 5 gallon Betta fish tanks. You can still find that many fish tanks that are made from glass, but there are so many more options.
5 gallon Betta fish tanks are good for giving Betta fish plenty of room to move around as well as plenty of room for décor. With all the options available to decorate Betta fish tanks you’ll have a much harder time deciding what goes in at after you decide which the best Betta fish tank is for you.
Taking care of 5 gallon Betta fish tanks is not a hard thing to do, but 5 gallon Betta fish tanks do need more attention then something like that 20 gallon fish tank. You might be thinking this sounds strange, but that the smaller the fish tank the faster changes happen in the water. Changes like nitrogen levels, the temperature of the water, and waste buildup can get quite bad if you don’t keep an eye on it. It’s not difficult to keep an eye on these changes because you’ll spend a lot of time that watching your beautiful Betta swam around its habitat.
5 gallon Betta aquarium caring
There are of course many aspects of betta and aquarium care. These are some that we want to cover here:
- Various different types of equipment and supplies for your betta tank.
- Proper maintenance of your betta fish tank which will help to maintain the health of your fish.
- Common betta diseases which can cause havoc on your tropical environment.
- How to breed bettas and care for the fry.
- Feeding, filtration and water conditions help to keep your fish healthy so they live longer.
As you look around the pet store, you see plastic one gallon bowls, a Betta fish tank that is curved in the front, and all sizes and types in between. So why so many choices? What is the right betta tank for you? Let’s look at what the betta requires, and then we can make a selection from there.
Betta tank selection is generally made by the owner according to what THEY want, not what the FISH wants! This is backwards. If you want your fish to have a shorter lifespan than he could have, and live a less than full existence, then by all means choose whatever looks good to you. But if you want to provide your fish with the perfect betta aquarium according to his needs, then read on.
Your betta requires…
1 – A 10 gallon Betta fish tank
Bettas live in very shallow water. Purchasing a betta tank that is deeper than it is wide is a waste, he will never use all that space at the top. And it is harder for you to clean as well. Purchase a wide low tank, a 10 gallon glass or acrylic aquarium is perfect. There are tanks called “bow front tanks” that make ideal betta tanks,
2 – Very Little Room, Comparatively
Bettas can live a long, healthy, happy life in a betta house as small as two or three gallons. I personally use nothing less than a five gallon tank, and prefer ten gallons for maximum betta comfort. These larger tanks are also much easier to use, and attaching heaters and filters will not take up too much room. There is also ample room to add betta tankmates, plants and other “furniture”.
3 – 78 to 82 Degree Water and a small fish tank filter
This means that a home that is too small for a heater is no good. It has to be big enough to house a heater that can keep him at a comfy 80 degrees or so. This also means a small fish tank filter for Betta to move the water so there are no hot and cold spots.
4 – Fog and Scratch-Free Walls
Your betta wants to watch you. He wants to play with you, and perform for you, and he can not do that if he can not see through the walls of his tank. Besides, you want to see him and his betta tank in all their splendor. Choose glass or acrylic over plastic, because they will not fog up, get cloudy or scratch over time.
That’s it. Five gallon and up, low and wide, glass or acrylic and heated are the requirements for the perfect betta tank.
Three basic types of aquarium heaters exist: clip-on, submersible, and electronic.
Clip on heaters represent an economical option for providing stable temperature and are designed to be fastened to the aquarium frame. It is important to respect the indicated water line. This will ensure proper functioning of the thermostat.
Submersible heaters offer greater flexibility in terms of application and are available in easy to hide smaller diameters, such as the Hagen thermal compact and preset range.
Electronic heater employs a technologically advanced method of temperature control and eliminated mechanical technologies found in conventional heaters.
There are several ways of maintaining suitable temperatures for the tropical fish. If it is placed in a room which is warm at all times, it may be possible to dispense with special heating altogether if the temperature falls no lower than 68 degrees in the water. Aquarists with many tanks in fish-rooms or fish-houses usually favor general heating of this kind, which is cheaper than individual heating and has the advantage of keeping the aquarist warm as well as his fishes. A vented gas or oil heater is best if central heat is required.
In the average home the single tank will need to be given special heating of its own. The usual heaters are resistance wire wound on ceramic forms and enclosed in glass tubes, sometimes filled with fine sand to conduct the heat faster to the wall of the tube and into the water. These are inexpensive but the cheaper kinds often have a short life. The better ones are more strongly made and have heatproof (Pyrex) glass tubes.
To be effective, the capacity of the heater must be such as to prevent a temperature drop below 65 degrees even in severest weather. This means that the heater must be arranged with an automatic switch to turn the electricity on and off as needed. This switch is called a "thermostat". Most aquarium thermostats consist of a bar of metal (called bimetal), really two different metals fused together, which bends when heated. The bend is always in the same direction and the same amount with the same heat increase. This movement is used to open the electrical contact points.
Construction features vary with price and quality. The oldest and simplest consists of the thermostat enclosed in a glass tube which is suspended in the water. It is connected to the heater which is similarly suspended in the water.
Combinations in which the thermostat and heater are enclosed in the same glass tube are available also, and some are good. These units use heavy bi-metal bars and depend on over-heating in order to operate because the thermostat and heating element are so close together. The contact points on the heavy bi-metal bar usually corrode eventually and stick together, causing your fish to be cooked by over-heating. These units, of whatever construction, are not very attractive in the aquarium, and certainly do not add anything to its value as a "living picture".
A recent development is an extremely sensitive thermostat which is installed on the outside of the aquarium, against the glass. It responds to both the inside and the outside temperatures. This prevents over-heating should the outside temperature rise, and prevents chilling should the outside temperature drop. Thus extremely close temperature control is possible, as close as two degrees F. variation. This is desirable in breeding and raising small fish, but is generally not necessary. A temperature range of 10°F. is usually considered satisfactory.
This outside thermostat is equipped with a very small permanent magnet that causes the contact points to snap sharply together when switching on, and causes an equally sharp snap-off when switching off, thus preventing "arcing" of the points, the cause of corroding. This fast make-and-break eliminates the need of a condenser, another frequent cause of thermostat failure.
The thermostat may be used with the regular suspended heater, or with a submersible heater lying on the sand or partially concealed. The heater size should be from 3 watts per gallon for protected locations to not more than 5 watts per gallon for more exposed aquariums.
So, having decided where the aquarium will go, and how it is to be illuminated and heated, purchase just the tank and necessary apparatus for these purposes. The materials for furnishing the tank will be described in the next chapters.
The aquarium filter plays a critical role in maintaining the overall health of your aquarium. The main function of any best aquarium filter system is as follows:
- It promotes the fish tank nitrogen cycle by providing a medium for the growth of bacteria.
- It removes waste and debris from the water.
- It aerates the aquarium’s water. Through this process oxygen is added to the water and CO2 is removed.
There are three types of filtration systems and whatever aquarium filter type you select must incorporate all three. There is mechanical filtration which removes solid wastes suspended in the water by passing it over material that screens the small particles out. The filtration medium over time will become covered with beneficial bacteria. This will allow it to perform biological filtration as well.
The purpose of biological filtration is to change harmful ammonia into nitrates and then nitrites. This process is known as detoxification. Finally, chemical filtration is what helps keep your aquarium water clean and sparkling. Chemicals and dissolved minerals are absorbed as the water passes over filtration mediums such as activated charcoal.
Popular mechanical filters come in three general types. A canister filter provides chemical biological, chemical and mechanical filtration and is very popular among hobbyists. They are capable of turning over several hundred gallons of water per hour. For this reason they are often used on larger aquarium systems.
Power filters can also function as mechanical, biological and chemical filters. They run on electricity and generally hang on the outside of the aquarium. They come in a variety of sizes so they will handle different size tanks.
You may also want to consider corner filters. These are submersible filters that function primarily as mechanical filters. These filters have been around a long time and have evolved a lot over the years. They are still very popular among aquarium enthusiasts.
A good aquarium filter will cycle your aquariums water completely at least eight times per hour. Most good mechanical filters are rated by the number of gallons of water that flow through them every hour. Check the filter box. It should be labeled with the GPH rating. It may also show the size tank the filter was designed for.
If you have a tank larger than ten gallons, you might want to have two aquarium filters. You may want more than one filter even if one will handle your entire aquarium’s requirements. It’s always good to have a backup filter in case one fails. You can mix and match the filters any way you want. You could have two power filters or one canister and one corner filter. It won’t matter.
Here’s another consideration on aquarium filter choice. Filters that allow you to replace one part without having to throw out everything and lose the whole bacteria colony are a better way to go. Most good filters will tell you which parts you need to replace and when to replace them. This will protect the bacteria buildup that helps keep the water and your fish healthy.
Canister filters boast of their large water filtering capacity. Therefore, they can filter greater amounts of water than other aquarium filters in the market. Canister filters also saves you space since you can hide it under your aquarium. These are also easy to customize so that you can have a combination of mechanical, chemical, and biological filter devices.
Because mechanical filtration is the major function of the canister filter, expect that you will have to clean it as often as possible. The filtration mechanism may easily be clogged up with wastes that you will have to take them out frequently. If not, the decaying matter might be circulated back into the water and will endanger the lives of your pets.
Once the water has been freed from the chemicals, it is allowed to pass through the bacteria bed, wherein the bacteria present in the bed change the nitrites into nitrates. This biological filtration is necessary in order to lessen the toxic effects of these chemicals.
Factors To Consider
1. Availability of Fluval canister filters replacement parts
When shopping for Fluval 06 series canister filters, you have to inquire if the store also carries replacement parts for the filter. Although the filter is durable and is guaranteed to last for a long time, there will be a time that you will have to change the parts of the Fluval 06 series canister filters as part of maintenance. It is best if you have spare o-rings, impellers, and rubber gaskets. You can’t be sure when you will need to replace them.
2. Type of aquarium
While there are Fluval 06 series canister filters that will work for both freshwater and saltwater, there are some that are not recommended for saltwater. Inform the seller what type of aquarium you have before buying one.
3. Installation process
While someone can help you with installing the filter, most of the maintenance will be done by you. Check if you will be able to clean the device without help from an expert. The water filter is an important component of the aquarium. Once you have chosen Fluval 06 series canister filters, learn the proper way to maintain it in order to prevent any danger from happening to your pets.
Read the full review and buy the Fluval 06 series: https://lovefishtank.com/fluval-106-206-306-406-canister-filter/
Guppy fish is certainly one of the most popular freshwater aquarium fish species in the world. Everybody knows about this fish. The guppy is native to South America where it occurs in various habitats, ranging from highly turbid water in ponds, canals and ditches at low elevations to pristine mountain streams at high elevations.
Species name: Poecilia reticulata
Common names: Guppy
Order: Cyprinodontiformes (rivulines, killifishes and live bearers)
Maximum length: 1.6 – 2.4 in
Minimum tank size: 5 gallon fish tank
Distribution: Barbados, Brazil, Guyana, Netherlands Antilles, Trinidad and Tobago, the US Virgin Islands, Venezuela.
Diet: Omnivore. In the wild, guppy feeds on zooplankton, small insects and detritus. In captivity they will accept almost all fish food. Even though they look hungry all the time, you should feed them once or twice a day.
Guppy fish caring and breeding
This fish is small with brightly-coloured, usually triangular tails, a pointed nose and upturned mouth. Many different colour and tail type variations have been selectively bred. Males have longer, wider flowing tails and dorsal fins. The bodies of males are typically more colourful than their female counterparts. Females are considerably larger than males, have a white or clear body and may display a colourful tail, although shorter and not as flowing. Aside from coloration, sex can also be determined by the presence of the gonopodium organ. Mature females also have a dark gravid spot near their vent.
The ideal aquarium should be heavy planted with open area to swim. Guppies like to be kept in groups. When selecting your guppies, try to buy about 1 male for every 3-4 female. Ideally, the water should have a pH of 7-8.5, a dGH of 12-18 and a temperature between 66.2-84.2F.
Guppies are highly prolific livebearers. The gestation period of a guppy is 21-30 days, with an average of 28 days, varying according to water temperature. After the female guppy is inseminated, a dark area near the anus, known as the gravid spot, will enlarge and darken. Just before birth, the eyes of fry may be seen through the translucent skin in this area. Guppies prefer water temperatures of about 27 °C (82 °F) for reproduction. The female guppy has drops of between 2-100 fry, typically ranging between 5 and 30. From the moment of birth, each fry is fully capable of swimming, eating, and avoiding danger. After giving birth, the female is ready for conception again within only a few hours. In fact, guppies have the ability to store sperm, so the females can give birth many times, after only once breeding with a male.